Anton’s meats “The Steak Issue”


On a rainy Tuesday morning in November, Adcock has begun working on nine hunks of meat, sprinkling them with salt and olive oil. Adcock, the owner of Belly Up BBQ and Jude’s Rum Cakes, is playing grill master for the eight hungry men assembled for this communion with the cow.
I bought the nine steaks in the last 24 hours from eight shops: Dodge City Beef, Broadway Butcher Shop, the Local Pig, Bichelmeyer Meats, Anton’s Taproom and Restaurant, the Store, Price Chopper and McGonigle’s. I chose the strip because every butcher stocks it, and every home griller is willing to tackle it. As one butcher told me, “When people ask for steak, they’re asking for a strip.”
“Steak is what is unique about the Midwest,” says Todd Graves, a lawyer, cattle rancher and founder of the American Royal Steak Competition, which was held for the second time this past October (and loosely inspired this tasting). “It’s the most popular protein and what Kansas City is known for. This is the Napa Valley of steak.”

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